The Krendl #425 all fiber airlock unit is favored as an low priced unit by the weatherization programs, do it yourself minded, rental and retrofit builder for cellulose, rockwool and fiberglass. Planned for low care and high capacity, the Krendl #425 offers a big hopper capacity while providing rugged performance. The Krendl #425 Insulation Machine blows in up to twelve hundred lbs of cellulose per hour, 800 pounds of Rockwool and 300 pounds of fiber glass. [caption id="attachment_10" align="alignnone" width="212" caption="Krendl 425 Insulation Blowing Machine"][/caption] Sunken on and off switch delivers protection and shelter of electrical mechanisms. Protection guards and hopper bars offer worker welfare. Another feature of the Krendl #425 blow in insulation machine features a intergrated module design for fast reassembly and disassembly for stress free troubleshooting and maintenance. The Krendl 425 has a removable hopper for rapid and easy entry to the air lock. Two agitators improve the preperation of cellulose, rockwool and fiberglass. Entirely enclosed 1/2 hp fan cooled gear motor with 470 inch pounds of torque for extended life. Extra heavy, nickel plated # 40 chain with hardened steel sprockets provides a deterioration / scratch sturdy drive system. Better quality blower filter scheme permits for less filter care. Easy on and off operation of the feed and blower is offer by a 100 foot hardwired remote control cord and panel. 10 amp. 10amp over load protection for agitator motor for thorough security of the material feed motor. 1/2 amp glass fuse defense for transformer provide properly sized fuse safeguard on the 1 amp transformer. 120Volt/60Hz S.I. w/2-stage 8 amp blower OR 120Volt/60Hz D.I. w/3-stage 12.5 amp blower are user friendly for joining up to a single or a double 15 amp line power. The Kredl 425 insulation machine weighs in at only 196 lbs and is 36 inches x 21 inches x 44 inches. No insulation blowing machine can equal the Krendl 425 insulation machines's weight to power ratio. Power is brought to the Krendl 425 thru a couple of different options. First, through a double input,15 amps each, 120volt, 60hz for a single 12.5 amp blower. Or a single input,15 amp, 120volt, 60hz for a single 8 amp blower. The Krendl 425 all fiber insulation machine is an inexpensive selection for the WAP, DIY, rental and small construction markets.
During this succession of posts we will encompass all aspects of do it yourself energy auditing and a professional home energy audit. Some projects can easily be done by a home owner, while others require a certified energy auditor and a green energy contractor. A home owner can easily conduct a do it yourself home energy analysis, aka a home energy audit. During a simple but thorough assessment, anyone can find most issues in most homes. When evaluating your home, keep a journal of locations that have been reviewed and problems you found.
Location of Air Leaks - To be performed by a do it yourselfer and a certified energy auditing professional.
First, form a list of obvious air infiltration. The possible utility savings from a decrease of drafts in a home may range annually by five to thirty percent, leading to increased comfort in a residence. Locate indoor air leaks, such as slits along the baseboard or the edge of the flooring and at junctures of the walls and ceiling. Common problem areas include; light switch plates, base boards, door weather stripping, attic hatches, electrical outlets, window frames, window and wall air conditioning units and fireplace dampers. Seal all fractures and holes in the mortar, foundation and siding. Inspect the structure's exterior caulking located around windows and doors, and check whether exterior storm doors and primary doors seal properly.
Also look for breaches around wires and pipes, foundation seals, pet access doors, and mail slots. Check to inspect if weather stripping and caulking are installed properly, demonstrating no voids or cracks, and are functioning properly.
Inspect doors and windows for leaks. See if you can rattle them, movement normally points towards possible air infiltration. Noticing light around a door or window casing, then there is air infiltration around the door or window. Seal these air leaks with weather stripping or caulking. Check the storm windows for proper fit and that they are functioning properly. Consider changing old doors and windows with modern, high-performance ones. If modern windows or doors are too pricey, you can install low-cost plastic sheets over the windows.
If you are having difficulty finding air leaks, or once you have found all the easy fixes, have a professional energy auditor conduct a full energy audit. A certified energy auditor will perform a depressurization test utilizing a blower door. A blower door depressurizes the structure, most professional standards require a negative 50 pascal pressure. Readings from a blower door require proper training and certification to translate and understand. We will cover blower door operation in detail in a future post.
In structures where fossil fuels are used for heating the residence, diagnose if the combustible appliance is properly ducted and has ample air supply. While sealing any home, you must always be mindful of the risk of indoor air quality and combustion appliance backdrafts.Backdrafting can happen when the various combustion appliances and exhaust fans in the building contend for air. Exhaust fans can pull the combustible gases directly into the living areas. This can produce a very risky and harmful state in the building. Due to likely carbonmonoxide concerns and backdrafting from the combustion applicance zone (CAZ), it is highly advised that a certified energy auditor perform a home performance audit after any major air sealing of a residence.
If you are interested in becoming a home performance energy auditor, check out the 2010 BPI Class and Resnet Class schedules.
During this multiple part series all aspects of energy auditing will be discussed and including retro-fitting your home net zero (consumes zero energy).  Some projects can be simply done by a home owner, while others require a certified energy auditor and a retrofit contractor. You can easily conduct a do-it-yourself a simple home energy analysis, [...]
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This is a multi-part series where all aspects of home
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The Krendl 425 all fiber airlock insulation machine is favored as an economical unit by the energy auditing programs, DIY, rental and green builder for any fiber application. Designed for low upkeep and high capacity, the Krendl #425 delivers a huge hopper volume while offering jobsite durability.
The Krendl #425 will blow in up to twelve hundred pounds of cellulose per hour, 800 lbs of Rockwool and 300 pounds of fiberglass.
Sunken on and off switch offers protection and shelter of electrical mechanisms. Safety guards and hopper bars offer user security. The Krendl 425 insulation machine has a intergrated module design for fast reassembly and disassembly for stress free troubleshooting and care. The Krendl 425 features a removable hopper for rapid and easy entry to the airlock. Two agitators boost the preperation of cellulose, rockwool and fiberglass. Entirely surrounded 1/2 hp fan cooled gear motor with 470 in / lbs of torque for a long life span. Heavy duty, nickel pl...
This is a multi-part series where all aspects of energy auditing will be discussed and including retro-fitting your home net zero (no utility bills). Many of which can be done easily by a do it yourself-er, while others require a certified energy auditor and a green energy contractor. You can easily conduct a do it your self a simple home energy analysis, commonly called a home energy audit. During a simple but meticulous analysis, anyone can find many problems in all houses. While evaluating a home, keep a journal of locations you have inspected and any issues found. Locality of Air Leaks - Difficulty range of do it yourself to professional home energy auditor. Initially, compose a check list of noticeable air infiltration. The potential energy savings from the reduction of drafts in a residence may range from 5% to 30% per year, this also leads to more comfort in the home. Locate indoor air infiltration, including slits along the baseboard along the edge of the floor ma...
During this sequence of topics we will encompass all facets of a do it yourself energy audit and a certified home performance energy audit. Many of which can be easy fixes for a do it yourselfer, while others require a home energy audit and a retrofit contractor. You can easily perform a do it yourself energy assessment, referred to as a home energy audit. With a simple but attentive walk-through, anyone can spot problems in most homes. When assessing a home, keep a checklist of locations that have been examined and problems you found.
Location of Air Infiltration - To be performed by a do it yourselfer and a certified energy auditing professional.
Initially, compose a check list of obvious air infiltration. The possible energy savings by the reducation of air leaks in a structure may vary annually by five to thirty percent, this also leads to more comfort in the home. Isolate indoor air infiltration, such as opening along the base board along the edge of the flooring and at the junctures of the ceiling and walls. An easy of items includes; access hatches to attics, wall or window air conditioning units, baseboards, fireplaces, door weather stripping, light switch plates, electrical outlets and window frames and weather stripping. Seal all crevices and holes in the mortar, foundation and siding. Check the structure's exterior caulking located around doors and windows, and see whether exterior storm doors and primary doors seal properly.
Another easy fix is to look for breaches around pipes and wires, foundation gaskets, mail slots and doggie doors. Make sure to check if caulking and weather stripping are installed correctly, leaving no voids or cracks, and are in good condition.
Examine all doors and windows for air leaks. See if you can shake them, movement usually points towards possible air infiltration. If you can notice light around a window or door casing, then the window or door has air leaks. Sealing this leaks is easy these air infiltrations by caulking or weather stripping them. Inspect the storm windows to see if they fit and are not broken. Consider swapping old windows and doors with modern, high performance windows and doors. If high efficient windows or doors are too expensive, install lower cost plastic sheets over the windows.
Once it is hard finding air infiltration, or once you have found all the low hanging fruit, you may want to have a professional energy auditor conduct a building pressurization test. A professional energy auditor will perform a depressurization test using a blower door. A blower door applies a negative pressure to the home, most professional standards require a negative 50 pascal pressure. Readings from a blower door require proper training and certification to translate and understand. Blower door procedure will be covered in detail in a later post.
In homes where fossil fuels are used for heating purposes, make sure the appliance is properly ducted and has ample air supply. If sealing any structure, you must always be attentive of the risk of indoor air quality and combustion appliance backdrafts.Backdrafting is when the various combustible appliances and exhaust fans in the home contend for air. Ventilation fans may pull the dangerous gases directly into the living areas. A very dangerous situation can be caused by this outcome. Due to potential carbonmonoxide problems as well as backdrafting from the combustion applicance zone (CAZ), we extremely advised a professional energy auditor do a home performance audit after any major air sealing of a home.
During this sequence of topics we will encompass all facets of a do it yourself energy audit and a certified home performance energy audit. Many of which can be easy fixes for a do it yourselfer, while others require a home energy audit and a retrofit contractor. You can easily perform a do it yourself energy assessment, referred to as a home energy audit. With a simple but attentive walk-through, anyone can spot problems in most homes. When assessing a home, keep a checklist of locations that have been examined and problems you found.
Location of Air Infiltration - To be performed by a do it yourselfer and a certified energy auditing professional.
Initially, compose a check list of obvious air infiltration. The possible energy savings by the reducation of air leaks in a structure may vary annually by five to thirty percent, this also leads to more comfort in the home. Isolate indoor air infiltration, such as opening along the base board along the edge of the flooring and at the junctures of the ceiling and walls. An easy of items includes; access hatches to attics, wall or window air conditioning units, baseboards, fireplaces, door weather stripping, light switch plates, electrical outlets and window frames and weather stripping. Seal all crevices and holes in the mortar, foundation and siding. Check the structure's exterior caulking located around doors and windows, and see whether exterior storm doors and primary doors seal properly.
Another easy fix is to look for breaches around pipes and wires, foundation gaskets, mail slots and doggie doors. Make sure to check if caulking and weather stripping are installed correctly, leaving no voids or cracks, and are in good condition.
Examine all doors and windows for air leaks. See if you can shake them, movement usually points towards possible air infiltration. If you can notice light around a window or door casing, then the window or door has air leaks. Sealing this leaks is easy these air infiltrations by caulking or weather stripping them. Inspect the storm windows to see if they fit and are not broken. Consider swapping old windows and doors with modern, high performance windows and doors. If high efficient windows or doors are too expensive, install lower cost plastic sheets over the windows.
Once it is hard finding air infiltration, or once you have found all the low hanging fruit, you may want to have a professional energy auditor conduct a building pressurization test. A professional energy auditor will perform a depressurization test using a blower door. A blower door applies a negative pressure to the home, most professional standards require a negative 50 pascal pressure. Readings from a blower door require proper training and certification to translate and understand. Blower door procedure will be covered in detail in a later post.
In homes where fossil fuels are used for heating purposes, make sure the appliance is properly ducted and has ample air supply. If sealing any structure, you must always be attentive of the risk of indoor air quality and combustion appliance backdrafts.Backdrafting is when the various combustible appliances and exhaust fans in the home contend for air. Ventilation fans may pull the dangerous gases directly into the living areas. A very dangerous situation can be caused by this outcome. Due to potential carbonmonoxide problems as well as backdrafting from the combustion applicance zone (CAZ), we extremely advised a professional energy auditor do a home performance audit after any major air sealing of a home.
Over a series of posts we will cover a broad range of phases of a DIY energy audit and a professional home energy audit. Â Many of which can easily be done by a do it yourself minded home owner, while others require a certified energy auditor and a retrofit contractor. A home owner can easily perform a do it yourself home energy analysis, also known as a home energy audit. During a simple but thorough analysis, anyone can ascertain most issues in all houses. While considering a home, keep a checklist of locations that have been examined and any problems that are found.Â
Location of Air Leaks - To be performed by a do it yourselfer and a certified energy auditing professional.
First, compose a check list of apparent air leaks. The possible energy savings by decreasing air drafts in a structure can vary from 5% to 30% per year, also leading to greater comfort in the structure. Check for indoor air leaks, such as gaps along the base board or the edge of the flooring and at the junctures of the ceiling and walls. Easy fixes often include; electrical outlets, switch plates, window frames, baseboards, weather stripping around doors, fireplace dampers, attic access hatches and wall or window mounted air conditioners. Find and seal any fractures and holes in the mortar, foundation and siding. Â Check the structure's exterior caulking around windows and doors, and check whether exterior storm doors and primary doors seal properly.
Next look for gaps near wires and pipes, footing gaskets, pet access dors, and mail slots. Make sure to inspect if caulking and weather stripping are applied properly, demonstrating no gaps or cracks, and are in working order.
Inspect windows and doors for air infiltration. See if you can shake them, movement usually points towards possible air infiltration. If you can notice light around a door or window frame, that means the door or window leaks. Seal these drafts with weather stripping or caulking. Check the storm windows to see if they fit and are not broken. A home owner may swapping old doors and windows with new, high performance windows and doors. If modern windows or doors are too costly, install lower cost plastic sheets over the windows.
If you are having difficulty isolating air infiltration, or once you have found all the simple fixes, have a professional energy auditor conduct a full energy analysis. Â A certified energy auditor will execute a depressurization test using a blower door. Â A blower door applies a negative pressure to the structure, normally to negative 50 pascal. Â Many readings can be assembled during a blower door test including; EfLA, EqLA, ACH and CFM. Â Blower door operation will be covered in detail in a later post. Â
In residences where combustible fuel sources are used for heating the residence, determine if the appliance has proper air ducting and supply. When sealing a residence, you must always be mindful of the hazard of indoor air carbonmonoxide and combustible appliance back drafts. Back drafting can happen when all the combustible appliances and exhaust fans in the structure contend for air. Exhaust fans can pull the unsafe gases directly into the living space. This can create a very unsafe and harmful state in the structure. Â Due to likely carbon monoxide concerns as well as back drafting from the combustion appliance zone (CAZ), it is extremely advised that a professionally certified energy auditor do a home performance audit after any major air sealing of a building.
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[/caption] Sunken on and off switch delivers protection and shelter of electrical mechanisms. Protection guards and hopper bars offer worker welfare. Another feature of the Krendl #425 blow in insulation machine features a intergrated module design for fast reassembly and disassembly for stress free troubleshooting and maintenance. The Krendl 425 has a removable hopper for rapid and easy entry to the air lock. Two agitators improve the preperation of cellulose, rockwool and fiberglass. Entirely enclosed 1/2 hp fan cooled gear motor with 470 inch pounds of torque for extended life. Extra heavy, nickel plated # 40 chain with hardened steel sprockets provides a deterioration / scratch sturdy drive system. Better quality blower filter scheme permits for less filter care. Easy on and off operation of the feed and blower is offer by a 100 foot hardwired remote control cord and panel. 10 amp. 10amp over load protection for agitator motor for thorough security of the material feed motor. 1/2 amp glass fuse defense for transformer provide properly sized fuse safeguard on the 1 amp transformer. 120Volt/60Hz S.I. w/2-stage 8 amp blower OR 120Volt/60Hz D.I. w/3-stage 12.5 amp blower are user friendly for joining up to a single or a double 15 amp line power. The Kredl 425 insulation machine weighs in at only 196 lbs and is 36 inches x 21 inches x 44 inches. No insulation blowing machine can equal the Krendl 425 insulation machines's weight to power ratio. Power is brought to the Krendl 425 thru a couple of different options. First, through a double input,15 amps each, 120volt, 60hz for a single 12.5 amp blower. Or a single input,15 amp, 120volt, 60hz for a single 8 amp blower. The Krendl 425 all fiber insulation machine is an inexpensive selection for the WAP, DIY, rental and small construction markets.
